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06/02/2017

Making fashion inclusive

 

(Photo:cocktail dresses)

In 2015, New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter featured differently-abled models on the ramp. This, besides bringing a fresh perspective to an industry that is obsessed with size zero models, also sprung new terms such as adaptive clothing and inclusive fashion. While there have been brands such as IZ Collection that have featured adaptive clothing for a long time, fashion has slowly become more democratic since 2015.

For instance, last year, Tomy Hilfiger brought out a new collection of adaptive clothing for kids, and German-based Bezgraniz, one of the leading brands in this genre of clothing, presented its collection in the famed Los Angeles Fashion Week in October last year. The movement, as it turns out, has finally come home with fresh fashion design graduates taking it up as their line of expertise, and helped many such as National Award-winning para-shooter and para-swimmer Justin Vijay Jesudas dress up easy.

Though paralysed chest down, Jesudas drives to work for his swimming sessions, goes for shooting practice and to the gym everyday, all by himself. “But one of the most challenging things in my routine is dressing up,” he says. Wheelchair-bound, it is hard for Jesudas to button up his shirts or zip up his trousers. For a long time, since his accident in 2011, the only alternative was to wear oversized T-shirts and get help from his family to wear his trousers. But that’s only until he met designers Namrata Chandrasekhar and Shalini Viswanathan.

Chandrasekhar, who graduated from National Institute of Fashion Technology, Chennai, last year, took up adaptive clothing as the topic for her final-year project in college. As part of her research, she interacted with Jesudas over the course of four months, trying to understand his requirements and his restrictions in movement. “Based on this, I brought out a collection of clothing which included casual wear, party wear, and those to simply chill by the beach,” she says, over a call from Bengaluru, where she works as a fashion stylist. A video clip she created as part of her project shows Jesudas in black party wear with stretchable panels on the sides, pants with pouches on the thigh rather than the back, and trousers that can be worn as shorts or be pulled to their full length.

“In inclusive fashion, it is very important to get all the inputs from the person that you are creating the clothes for. For example, Jesudas cannot move his fingers, so I used magnets for the top three buttons and normal ones for the rest, so that he could wear it like a T-shirt,” she says. But Jesudas found that the magnetic buttons couldn’t support the weight of the shirt and came off often, so Chandrasekhar replaced it with a strap of Velcro. Given there are no set standards in the industry to follow when it comes to clothing for the physically challenged, “it is the result of a lot of trial and error,” she says. Chandrasekhar also observed that Jesudas puts a lot of pressure on his palm to propel his wheelchair, as he has weak biceps and triceps. “Since there is constant friction, his palms are callused. He used Therabands before, but I made gloves that have silicon prints on the palm area, and they can be strapped on easily as they use Velcro. This gives him the required grip on the push-rims. While he can push 500 metres with bare hands, with gloves on, he can push for two kilometres,” she says.

Meanwhile, Viswanathan, who holds a diploma in fashion from NIFT, Chennai, recently showcased her line of inclusive clothing under the brand name Suvastra as part of the Trios Fashion Show at Hilton. It was the first fashion show in India featuring wheelchair-bound people on the ramp, claims Jesudas. One of the highlights was a nighty that doubles up as a sari. “The one-piece garment can be worn as nightwear, but looks just like a sari complete with blouse, pleats and pallu,” says Viswanathan, who got into adaptive clothing two years ago, while designing clothes for her husband, who has polio. “I realised there were no brands offering inclusive clothing options. I knew the difficulty my husband faced, so I started making clothes for him. Since they came out well, his friends wanted me to make clothes for them as well. The demand eventually saw me making a whole new line,” she says.

The new Indo-Western collection includes pants with belts to help shift people from one place to another, extra-length elastic palazzos and crop tops with long zippers, and gowns with zips on the side and back.

Currently, there are no labels that have a section dedicated to inclusive fashion in India, she claims. “If you run a Google search, you might find 10 to 15 white papers on inclusive fashion, out of which half are outdated,” adds Jesudas.

It’s still in a very nascent stage, though there has been increasing awareness globally. But as far as an exclusive line is concerned, the numbers are still few, says Chandrasekhar.Read more at:formal dresses online

 

04:33 Publié dans fashion | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)

23/01/2017

Deepika, Parineeti, Sridevi lead Bollywood’s new obsession with funky bows

 

Bows are back! After festooning gifts and flowers, artistic bows are now a common sight in the fashion circuit. Bollywood’s obsession to flaunt funky bows is a clear sign of the new fetish that is making way into new designer wear. In the Victorian era, bows were spotted not only in women’s apparels but in menswear too. However, they happened to be a slightly smaller, rounder and subtly-designed. Bows fell out of fashion thereafter but made a stronger comeback in the late 1940s studded in brooches, brocades, gemstones and jewels. From then on, bows have been in and out of fashion.

Bracketed in simpler patterns and elegant shapes to lend a certain ladylike feel, bows are turning into a tad more fun and frivolous add-on to newly designed garments, bags, clutches, rings, earrings, heels and ballies now. Bow-tied straps, pussy-bow blouses, bow-topped shoes, bow-shaped studs or bow hair accessories — designers are working magic with knotted surprises in their latest ensembles. FromDeepika Padukone and Parineeti Chopra to Swara Bhaskar and Sridevi, actresses are experimenting with peculiar bows to boost their style files.

Steal a glance at B-town beauties looking pretty and poised:

Deepika Padukone

For her prominent appearance at The Late Late Show with James Corden, Padukone opted for a savage look in a monochrome Wolk Morais jumpsuit. The high-neckline jumpsuit is decked with a black pussy-bow on top to give an aristocratic look. The bow complements the jumpsuit quite well and gives an edge to her aura. Styled by Elizabeth Saltzman, she paired it with Jimmy Choo shoes. While Hung Vanngo assisted her for make-up and Christian Wood did her hair, she stepped out in a natural skin tone, light pink lip shade, bold black eyeliner and wavy light-brown tresses.

Parineeti Chopra

Pretty in pink, Parineeti Chopra graced the Filmfare Awards in an off-shoulder evening gown designed by Filipino designer Mark Bumgarner. With an adjoining big bow at the top, the dress made the 28-year-old look regal and resplendent. Keeping everything else simple while making it dramatic with the bow, the actress nailed the look with silver earrings from The Diamond Gallery and an Aurelle ring.

Swara Bhaskar

Like a bride straight out of a fairy tale, Swara Bhaskar donned a white strapless gown designed by Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla. The gown is not only embellished with embroidered gemstones, but fragments of ribbon-like bows too. Looking divine, she accessorised exquisitely with rings and earrings from Ghanasingh Be True.

Sridevi

At Javed Akhtar’s birthday bash, Sridevi styled it right in black-and-white. A Valentino pussy-bow blouse and ankle-length black culottes, the outfit adeptly put the bow in spotlight. The Chanel clutch and Gucci pearl T-strap sandals went with the flow. However, her make-up looked a bit overdone and had scope to be toned down.

Sonam Kapoor

Dressed in a Temperley London embroidered outfit, Sonam Kapoor wore a matching white bow. The silk bow looked great with the attire. Styled by Rhea Kapoor and Chandini Whabi, she wore maroon boots from Stuart Weitzman to accent her fashion statement.

Shraddha Kapoor

Wearing a full-sleeved sheer aqua mini dress designed by Shehla Khan, Shraddha Kapoor kept it sweet and simple at the Bigg Boss 10 house. A long ribbon tied into a neat bow near the collar area enhanced her look. Opting for natural makeup and lip colour, Kapoor wore Steve Madden stilettos with the dress.

Neha Dhupia

Taking organic cotton and linen to the red carpet in monochromes, Neha Dhupia wore a parachute organic cotton shirt and black pinstripe linen skirt from The Chola Label at the Filmfare Awards 2017. The organic shirt boasts of a giant pussy-bow, which pushes the envelope for the actress. Dhupia accented it with pearl studs and a long layered necklace from her own vintage collection.

Kalki Koechlin

Looking like a cute schoolgirl, Kalki Koechlin recently dressed herself in Gucci dress adorned with laces and a black Gucci handbag. Styled by Ekta Rajani, she wore a pink bow and pearl earrings along with it to complement her dress.

Clearly, bows are timeless when it comes to accentuating style statements, be it jazzing up with jewellery or adding it to the dress itself. So, are bows the next big thing?Read more at:evening gowns | bridesmaid dresses australia

 

03:28 Publié dans fashion | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)

20/01/2017

Paris Men's Fashion Week: highlights from day one

 

Menswear took center stage in Paris on Wednesday, as the city's Autumn / Winter 2017 shows began. Here are some of the strongest looks from day one.

There was plenty of vivid color and pattern on the catwalks -- not least of all at Walter Van Beirendonck, where bright yellows and turquoises competed with multiple prints for attention. The collection was all about covering up against the cold, with scarves, hats and surrealistic oversized gloves providing the focal point of the print-covered ensembles, blending rough woollen textures with smoother silks and satins, for a compelling look.

There were also plenty of prints at OAMC, where autumnal leaf motifs and dreamy pendant accessories set a quieter tone for the season -- a vibe that was echoed at Lemaire, where soft neutral shades were layered for a chunky, textured result.

Meanwhile, abstract tailoring gave new meaning to the 'layering' trend at Y/Project, with double layer jackets folded back on themselves for extra bulk. The archives of history provided reference points for some of the accessories by the label.

Valentino also embraced color and got political with inspirational and directive slogans, printed across colorful sweaters, coats and accessories. Elsewhere the Italian house nodded to gentlemanly outerwear, with sharp tailoring and plenty of checks.Read more at:short formal dresses | long formal dresses

 

04:29 Publié dans fashion | Lien permanent | Commentaires (0)