Just living is not enough… one must have sunshine, freedom, and a little flower.” Designers definitely heard Danish author Hans Christian Andersen at the Summer/Resort 2015 edition of Lakme Fashion Week (LFW). Florals may be summer’s surest cliche, but that didn’t stop some designers from giving them their own veritable spin. Technique took precedence over pretty prints with applique, cutwork and embroidery adding to detail and definition. Here are five collections that made us sit up and lean in closer to smell the flowers.
Layer it Up
Vrisa by Rahul n Shikha may have drawn inspiration from far-off Samarkand for their collection by the same name, but their treatment of the Suzani embroideries from Uzbekistan would fit in beautifully with most Indian wardrobes. Suzani, which comes from the Persian suzan meaning needle, was illustrated beautifully in the layered applique rendition of the floral motif. The Jaipur-based designers painstakingly appliqued seven layers of mulmul in varying colour dyes in progressive patching on to pristine handlooms, to create various
Manish Malhotra’s “Blue Runway” collection, in association with the WEvolve campaign, was predictably bathed in the hue. The rose was his leitmotif and was splashed across flowy gowns, lehenga skirts, swish sari drapes and crop tops. In his trademark touch, Malhotra used embroidery, especially Parsi gara thread embroidery, quite extensively. The flowers were magnified in places and peeked from shoulders and sleeves in others, including menswear. Elsewhere, gold zardozi roses were adorned with smaller flowers and loaded with sequins in different shades of gold for a three-dimensional effect.
Cut it Out
Florals are favourites for Archana Rao of Frou Frou. And they made more than a passing appearance in her collection “The Apartment”. Starting with a faux leather shoulder cape with cutwork flowers and pearl minutiae, she moved on to beads of different sizes, giving the flowers a mosaic-like rendition. Our favourite was a marsala tunic in twill fabric with extensive cutwork and embroidery.
Giving a different twist to love were Shikha Grover and Vinita Adhikari of Ilk whose collection “Love Me Not” used innovative layering and texturing. The duo used pastels and stark monochromes in two floral stories. While one saw sheer laser cut flowers used as seam inserts embellished with beads, the black-and-white line employed hand- and machine-embroidery with cords and beads to impressive effect.
In an extension of her previous Spring/Summer line, Pallavi Singhee of Verb’s “A La Suite” continued with her strong and feminine interplay. From monochromes to pearly pinks and pale oranges, all the outfits wore tone-on-tone flowers like fleeting butterflies poised to take flight. Closer inspection revealed that the embroidered and laser cut flowers were then appliqued on to the ensembles for a three-dimensional effect. While organza gave the flowers a stiffer appearance, the base fabrics were chiffons, tulles and Chantilly, creating an interesting combination. Some of the floral appliques were further highlighted with rhinestones and sequins.Read more at:www.marieaustralia.com/formal-dresses-perth
The latest looks from some of the planet's top clothing brands were on the runway last week for "Siam Paragon World Fashion Showcase 2015", which had as its theme "Step Forward to the 10th Anniversary".
Aigner, Burberry, Beige, Club21 Accessories, Coach, DVF, Emilio Pucci, Giorgio Armani, Hugo Boss, Jimmy Choo, Longchamp and Tod's showed their new creations in the mall's Hall of Fame in an event staged in collaboration with Citibank.
The hot trend of 2015 has been dubbed "Perfect Match", a head-to-toe coordination of colours or patterns of the sort popular in the 1980s but with a fresh twist. Mere mixing and matching is now forgotten.
Then there's "Passion for Prints", led by leopard and floral prints in delicate pastels and captivating patterns, a look emboldened by today's printing technology. Designers now have unlimited leeway in combining colours and patterns.
Among those patterns, gingham checks are stealing the limelight this season, inspired by nostalgia for sunny outdoor picnics.
The clothes tend to be oversized for extra comfort, airy tops matched with miniskirts making a comeback in soft pastel pink and blue. The more vibrant hues like fiery red, bright orange, vivid green and lemon yellow refuse to go away, however, while classic white and navy blue remains popular, especially when complemented by fluffy winter materials that are lightened for the warmer weather.
KPN musicians Thassapak "Bie" Hsu and Kanokchat "Typhoon" Munyad-on provided the tunes as celebrity models like Kimberley Anne Tiamsiri took the stage. Kim wore a terrific DVF Amana printed silk-wool coat, but the others looked just as chic in outfits including a gingham baby-doll dress, a black-and-white gingham and a dark rinsed denim with initials embroidered on the back pocket.
Pisinee "Si" Tanviboon showed an outfit from Emilio Pucci that captured the relaxed vibe of a glittering day at the seaside in the 1960s or '70s. Fresh, flirty and breezy, the Pucci collection swings to fond memories of the girlish Brigitte Bardot. Naval references pop up with a French touch and a romantic twist, in piercing blues, lemon yellow, white with pink and mango, all contrasted with bronze and beige. The shapes are sporty and casual.
Coach is going for effortless and intriguing in faded-chiffon tea dresses and platform pool slides, oversize pastel faux-fur Fraggle coats and metallic pastel leather clogs. Its Dakotah bag takes on new colours - a slouchy, silver-studded satchel and a neat A-line leather and patent in acidic hues.
The mood for Longchamp is dynamic, vibrant, luminous and optimistic in a collection for the active woman living each day to the fullest. The colours take inspiration from the magical Northern Lights and Southern Lights.
Fendi looks to architecture and early-20th-century avant-garde culture, as seen at its own Roman headquarters in the Palazzo della Civilta Italiana. Black mini-dresses have an asymmetrical swoosh lending youth and playfulness. Orchids are embroidered across dresses and denim is formed into jodhpurs and slouchy tracksuit trousers matched with abbreviated jackets. A tiny Peekaboo bag bears multiple finishes, while the famous Baguette is back on the shoulder, encrusted in gems.
The Siam Paragon event also featured photographs it commissioned in collaboration with Harper's Bazaar magazine. Talented cameramen had shot charming images of celebrities ML PiyapasBhirombhakdi, Jutatip Krairiksh,Vipada Donavanik, Jantana Pangputhipong, Hathaithep Theerathada and Phutarit Prombandarn, Inthira Thanavisuth, Varavut Laohapongchana, Korn Narongdej, Gritiya Mahadumrongkul, |Boonyapa and Kanachai Bencharongkul and |Unchisa Vacharaphol.
All of the portrait subjects |are devoted patrons of Siam Paragon, and they shared |their personal experiences and memories with the crowd in attendance.Read more at:www.marieaustralia.com/red-carpet-celebrity-dresses
Last week we looked at five interesting trends and design houses that caught our attention on our recent New York buying trip. This week, we look at five more. Here’s a preview of what will be hot in 2015!
• Helmut Lang: I was pleasantly surprised by the change in direction from Helmut Lang. Gone are the edgy twists on classic styles. His newest line has evolved with his collection, and the designer has ushered in a richer, more chic aesthetic. As a longtime fan of Lang, I am excited and curious about the change. It’s a risk for the designer, and a return to the fashion house’s core looks, but our buying team loved the collection and looks forward to receiving the new and improved Helmut Lang Collection for 2015: clean lines, crisp blouses, tailored suits and jackets. Trés chic!
• ‘70s-inspired denim: High-waisted jeans and flare legs are back in style, but don’t throw away those skinnies just yet. Do add a few pieces of flare-legged denim to your collection. My favorite styles were from Rag and Bone, who showed dark washes that give off a dressier, cooler feel, but also expect to see many lighter-wash denim options. Each showroom we visited offered at least one pair of flared pants or jeans.
• Dynamic sportswear: Make room for dressy athletic wear like sweatshirts, jogging pants and football jersey-inspired tops. Athletic wear is definitely having a moment and we want to capture it! I ordered some great jersey-inspired sweatshirts sporting celebrities’ names, like Cara Delevigne, Kate Moss and Beyonce. Rag and Bone showcased the best athletic-inspired apparel.
• Evening gowns: As we saw at the Oscars this year, intricate formal dresses are back in style. Lady Gaga, Emma Stone and Lupita Nyong’o all wore dresses that were works of art in their own right, and anything but plain. I was happy to see this shift in evening gowns. For fall 2015, expect decadent, extravagant and over the top!
Soji Tadashi’s elegant gowns and dresses were by far my favorite line in this market. He showed leather, beads, fringe – you name it, he had it all! It was the most diverse, interesting collection by far. There were lots of jewels, beads and embroidery. All his dresses were red carpet-worthy.
• 50 shades of gray. The color for fall 2015 is none other than gray! This includes all shades, from heather to charcoal, slate to gunmetal. The color is clean and chic and pairs perfectly with a variety of other hues. Gray boots, gray eveningwear, gray handbags and gray sweaters. Mix it up with unexpected accent colors like burgundy, hunter green and even navy blue. Gray is neutral and basic and should definitely be in your closet in 2015.Read more at:MarieAustralia bridesmaid dresses